You have your swatch, you have your steps on how to calculate stitches for your perfect sock and you should have your desired length of cuff.

Simple knit socks
Level 1
Sock knitting basics 101
Level 2
Knitted socks with cables
Level 3

 

 

 

 

 

 

Let’s move on with heel flap, turning the heel and making decreases for perfect gusset.

Basically, this is the overview.

Heel flap

Heel flap is worked back and forth over half of your total stitches while the remaining stitches rest on their needles. I usually knit my heel flap with 3rd and 4th needle. First stitch of every row is a slipped stitch – we need our edges to be loopy, so we can later easily pick up stitches. And you knit as many rows as many stitches you have on your two needles . For example – I have 28 stitches on two needles, so I need to knit 28 rows total. There are two simple ways to knit heel flap:

  • 1st optionRow 1 (wrong side): slip 1 stitch, purl to end.Row 2 (right side): slip 1 stitch, knit to end.
    Repeat rows 1 and 2.
  • 2nd optionRow 1 (wrong side): slip 1 stitch, purl to end. Row 2 (right side): slip 1, knit 1 across.
    Repeat rows 1 and 2.

Turning the heel

Turning the heel is also knitted back and forth, but you’re not going to work all the stitches. This means you’re gonna use short rows, but it sounds scarier then it is. So here’s what you do:

  • Row 1 (wrong side): Purl across half the steps of your heel flap plus 1, purl 2 together, purl 1. Now TURN the work.
  • Row 2 (right side): Slip 1, knit 3, ssk, knit 1, TURN.
  • Row 3: Slip 1, purl 4, purl 2 together, purl 1, TURN.
  • Row 4: Slip 1, knit 5, ssk, knit 1, TURN.
  • Row 5: Slip 1, purl 6, purl 2 together, purl 1, TURN.
  • Row 6: Slip 1, knit 7, ssk, knit 1, TURN.

Continue adding one worked stitch before the decrease in each row, until all of the stitches have been worked, finishing with a right side row.


 

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Gusset

Gusset will be knitted in rounds again. First you have to pick up stitches from one side of the heel flap, then knit stitches from 2nd and 3rd needles, pick up stitches from other side of heel flap and knit last stitches.

Step by step:

  • Divide your heel stitches in half, leaving half on the current needle and putting the other half on an empty needle.
  • With the right side of the work facing you, take the needle holding the leftmost heel stitches and use it to pick up stitches along the slipped stitched edge of the heel flap, moving upward toward the cuff, one stitch per slipped stitch. You should be picking up amount of stitches you had on one needle when you first started (so you have picked up stitches + stitches from heel flap on this one needle);
  • Now knit your 2nd and 3rd needle as you did before heel flap (continuing with your pattern if you had one);
  • You should now be at the other side of the heel flap, with an empty needle in your hand. Pick up the same number of stitches that you did on the other side, then continue across the live stitches that are waiting on the last needle (the ones remaining from the section where you turned the heel). By the way, this is your new beginning of the round now – 1st and 4th needle should have more stitches then 2nd and 3rd needle. Right?

Gusset decreases

You just formed your gusset. Now we need to make decreases, so we can have nicely fitted socks. 1st and 4th needle is for sole, so it’s usually just knitted. And these are the needles where we make our decreases. It goes like this:

  • Round 1: Knit all around, knitting through back loop on the picked-up stitches along both sides of the heel flap only; otherwise knit normally (continuing with the pattern on needles 2 and 3).
    Round 2: Knit until 3 stitches remain on Needle 1, knit 2 together, knit 1; knit across Needle 2 and Needle 3 (following pattern if you have one); on Needle 4, knit 1, ssk, knit to end.
    Round 3: Knit (+pattern on 2nd and 3rd needle).
  • Repeat rounds 2 and 3 only until all four needles have the same number of stitches on them again.

Now, using your chosen sock level, make your heel.

Level 1 – socks with diagonal ribbing:

Knitted socks with diagonal ribbing

Make a heel using instructions and tips above – I didn’t made any changes here and no need to follow any extra pattern.

  • I used option number 2 for heel flap (you can use either one);
  • Make your heel turn as instructed;
  • Make your gusset as instructed – no need to watch any pattern on needles 2 and 3 – just knit;

 

 

 

 

Level 2 – easy and comfortable unisex socks:

Easy sock knitting pattern for men

Make a heel using instructions and tips above.

  • I used option number 2 for heel flap (you can use either one);
  • Make your heel turn as instructed;
  • Make your gusset as instructed – make sure you’re following your pattern on needles 2 and 3;
    • Pattern for 2nd and 3rd needle: Round 1: *knit 1, purl 1* repeat to end. Round 2: knit. Repeat rounds 1 and 2.

 

 

 

Level 3 – cabled socks with honeycomb pattern:

Cabled sock pattern with honeycomb patternRemember all the instructions from above:

  • Heel flap
    • Row 1: 1st needle: knit to last 8 stitches, purl 4, knit 4;
      2nd needle: knit 4, purl 4, knit to end;
    • Row 2: knit the knits and purl the purls;
    • Row 3: 1st needle: knit to last 8 stitches, purl 4, 2/2 cable right;
      2nd needle: 2/2 cable left, purl 4, knit to end;
    • Rows 4,5,6: knit the knits and purl the purls;
    • Row 7: 1st needle: knit to last 8 stitches, purl 4, 2/2 cable left;
      2nd needle: 2/2 cable right, purl 4, knit to end;
    • Rows 8,9,10: knit the knits and purl the purls;
    • Row 11: 1st needle: knit to last 8 stitches, purl 4, 2/2 cable left;
      2nd needle: 2/2 cable right, purl 4, knit to end;
    • Rows 12,13,14: knit the knits and purl the purls;
    • Row 15: 1st needle: knit to last 8 stitches, purl 4, 2/2 cable right;
      2nd needle: 2/2 cable left, purl 4, knit to end;
    • Rows 16,17,18: knit the knits and purl the purls;
    • Row 19: 1st needle: knit to last 8 stitches, purl 4, 2/2 cable right;
      2nd needle: 2/2 cable left, purl 4, knit to end;
    • Row 20: knit the knits and purl the purls;
    • Repeat rows 1 to 20 until you’ve reached your needed row count (see instructions from beginning).
  • Make your heel turn as instructed above.
  • Make your gusset as instructed.
    • NOTE! On needles 2 and 3 use same pattern as you used on heel flap (repeating rows 1 to 20), 1st and 4th needle will be just knit rounds.

Next time will be easier, I promise 🙂

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